Cycle through the colourful heart of Italy’s Calabria
Angelika Hinteregger and Reinhard Maxbauer
Day 1: Lago Cecita to Sila Piccola (Pantane)
We open the door to our accommodation early in the morning. Rays of sunshine hit our faces, loud honking sounds from the streets and people are already walking energetically. “Ciao Angelika e Reinhard!” Francesco calls out to us and beams at us. We have arrived in Calabria, the southern tip of Italy! For the next five days we want to follow part of the “Ciclovia Parchi Calabria”, whose name can be roughly translated into “the cycle path of the Calabrian Park”. The route leads over the Calabrian Apennines and through four nature and national parks and since neither of us have been to Calabria before, this sounds like a tailor-made adventure for us!
The sky is bright blue, the temperatures are a pleasant 16 degrees in mid-November and the landscape shines in all imaginable autumn colors. For the first few kilometers we roll effortlessly along the lake until we turn left onto a dirt road. Due to the heavy rains of last week, the gravel path soon becomes a muddy track, and we make acrobatic movements to somehow avoid slipping into the next puddle. With success! The path becomes steeper, and we have to push the bike again and again. Didn't Francesco say there were no steep paths here? We enjoy the little challenge and pass pastures and fields, past potato farmers who are just collecting their autumn harvest from the fields and cycle along small streams and idyllic meadows. Again and again we get a view of the surrounding hills, which glow in many shades of red thanks to the discolored leaves. A little natural spectacle in the middle of the Sila National Park! Back on asphalt, there are more and more “Ciclovia Parchi” signs and thanks to the gentle gradients throughout.
We reach the highest pass of the tour and enjoy the fantastic descent to Lago Arvo. From now on we continue slightly uphill and downhill, through glowing orange forests and past lush green pine trees, until we reach Lake Ampollino. In the low season there is absolute silence here and we have the cycle path along the reservoir all to ourselves.
In the last 20 kilometers it is already getting dark, and we ride in the light of our bike lights through the sparsely populated area to our accommodation. The Italian dinner with local porcini mushrooms is the culmination of the first day!
Day 2: Sila piccolo (Pantane) to Tiriolo
While yesterday we cycled mainly through forests and uninhabited areas, today we get to see the famous mountain villages of Calabria! The colorful houses are lined up close together on the steep mountain slopes and in the small, narrow streets you can feel the charming flair of Calabria. What a treat for the eyes!
A look at today's route already reveals the magnificent road layout that awaits us today. Countless curves meander through the southern mountain landscape of the Sila National Park. The road couldn't be more impressive and at the same time, thanks to the low traffic and the wonderful scent of the forest, it conveys a feeling that couldn't be more homely. Every meter of this road is fun, whether uphill or downhill. The gradients are gentle, the views after every bend are special and nature is a pure work of art. We can hardly make any progress because we constantly pull on the brakes, stop and just marvel. It feels like it's all downhill all day and the few meters in altitude are spread unnoticed over the kilometers. Riding a bike is fun.
We reach Tiriolo at sunset. The small town, which stretches over a hill like its neighboring villages, is perhaps the most beautiful town along this stage. This impression may also be reinforced by the incredible hospitality we receive at the Hotel Residence Due Mari. As soon as we arrived, we were put into an Ape, an Italian tuk-tuk, and driven through the narrow streets of Tiriolo. What an experience! Afterwards we are served, among other things, the best Calabrian porcini mushrooms in all variations, until the tables bend, and our bellies threaten to burst. Of course, accompanied by excellent Calabrian red wine. This day and this evening symbolize what we imagine as “Dolce Vita”!
Day 3: Tiriolo to Serra San Bruno
As a farewell, Antonio, who hosted us so lovingly in his great hotel, gave us a “Ciclovia Parchi Calabria” button that we can stick on our bike bags. How much we would have liked to stay another night in Tiriolo with Antonio, but we have to move on! Because today we have a long stage ahead of us with 80 kilometers and 1,700 meters in altitude. It is extremely windy today. From Tiriolo we roll down the mountain over wonderful serpentines and enjoy a distant view of the Tyrrhenian and Ionian Seas. If there were no clouds in the sky right now, we could even spot Sicily and Stromboli on the horizon!
On the way towards Caraffa the headwind really picks up. The sun is shining to our left, while the clouds on our right are getting darker. The olive groves around us are lush green and the last olives are waiting to be harvested. The rapidly changing weather produces a magnificent rainbow! Check out the photos! The clouds should remain our loyal companions for this day. The further we climb towards Monte Covello, the highest point of the day, the more mystical the atmosphere becomes. The tops of the tall oak trees bend in all directions, the wind whistles through the forests and the fog hangs so low that it almost touches the road. No cars, no cyclists, no walkers in a very popular summer excursion destination. Just us, surrounded by the late autumn atmosphere in the middle of the Calabrian mountains. Just wonderful! From the pass we go down to the next village of San Vito sullo Ionio. Because my strength is dwindling throughout the day and I can no longer ignore the approaching cold, Reini continues the last 20 kilometers to Serra San Bruno alone in the dark. I am driven the last bit by car by two helpful men and thanks to them I am able to enjoy the relaxed and at the same time lively mentality of the southern Italians, which so impresses us Central Europeans.
Serra San Bruno is a tranquil town with many narrow streets, historic churches and small authentic restaurants, right at the entrance to the Serre nature reserve. In short: a place to feel good!
Day 4: Serra San Bruno to Rifugio Il Boschetto (Aspromonte)
Angi got a fever during the night, and we decided that I would continue driving alone. Bad timing, but we're trying to make the best of the situation! After I have provided her with everything, she needs for the next few days to get well again quickly, I start today's stage relatively late. The path takes me over beautiful serpentines up into a forest and right into the Serre nature reserve. The streets of the small village of Mongiana are lined with busy cafes and restaurants whose temptation I find difficult to resist. Every cafe, no matter how small, has a temptingly good coffee machine and the smell fills my nose. But this time I have to drive on and fill up my bottle at the nearest drinking water fountain. There is crystal clear mountain water everywhere here, although I would definitely prefer an Italian espresso at this moment.
From now on I drive past lush green pine trees and bright orange deciduous trees. It takes almost two hours until the forest clears up a bit, but at that moment I have to stop in my tracks because of sheer amazement. Here I actually see the island of Stromboli with the volcano of the same name for the first time! What a sight!
For a short time, I drive through a region that is primarily characterized by agriculture. Cows, goats and sheep liven up the streets, shepherds move with their flocks across the meadows and their shepherd dogs help them look after their sheep. I must be particularly careful because the large, white sheepdogs always perceive me as a threat. As soon as a dog sets its sights on me, I stop abruptly and put my bike between us. So every dog has left me alone.
The sun is slowly setting, and today's already low temperatures continue to drop to +2 degrees. In the forests I observe how mushrooms are constantly being collected. I arrive at Refugio Il Boschetto shortly before sunset. Nicolai, the landlord of this small stone house in the middle of the forest, has already cooked for me and lit the fire in the fireplace to bring some coziness into the cold walls. We sit together all evening and chat about God and the world. I am learning so much about life in Calabria and can once again witness the special hospitality of this region. What an intensely beautiful day!
Day 5: Rifugio Il Boschetto (Aspromonte) to Reggio Calabria
The last day on the Ciclovia Parchi begins and I wish I could extend my time here a little longer. Calabria seems to have so many facets, corners and villages that I would like to explore all by bike. Fortunately, today's stage promises to allow you to once again experience the region's entire diversity on one tour. So, let's go!
To get back onto the road from the refuge, I have to push my bike steeply up a somewhat bumpy forest path. Back on the asphalt, I find myself, like the last few days, in a brightly colored forest. Since yesterday evening the route has taken me through the Aspromonte National Park, the southernmost national park in Calabria and therefore the last of the Ciclovia Parchi. In addition to wolves, there are also tortoises and small tree dormice in the national park. Unfortunately, the rare animals stay well hidden from me, in contrast to the goats and cows. They stroll happily along the streets and don't even look at me. Luckily, your otherwise attentive herd dogs do the same!
I've been traveling along the back of the Aspromonte National Park for two hours until the view to the front suddenly opens up. Today I can clearly see the volcano Stromboli, which stands alone out of the Tyrrhenian Sea, and it looks as if it is just spewing a small cloud of smoke from the crater! From now on the road begins to meander in all directions again. The serpentines of this small road are covered in colorful autumn leaves, the asphalt has a creative range of qualities and I don't see a single car for some time. When I see Mount Etna in Sicily on the horizon, the moment is perfect. Yes – almost cheesy. I'm in the right place at the right time and that feels incredibly good.
I start the last climb of the entire tour before the final descent with an altitude of 1,300 meters awaits me. Before I get the tires rolling, I take one last look at Sicily and the sea from above. The sun is already low, the last rays of sunshine are bathing my surroundings in deep orange tones and before the sun sets behind Sicily, I am rolling towards Reggio Calabria. The entire descent is a dream. Curve after curve it gets warmer, the vegetation begins to change and when I'm almost at sea level, the first banana trees shine towards me. The contrast with the higher altitudes of the Calabrian Apennines could not be greater. I roll into Reggio Calabria before it gets dark and sit on the beach to listen to the waves. Those were wonderful and intense five days in Calabria.
Angelika Hinteregger e Reinhard Maxbauer are content creators of Komoot and authors of Saddlestories.at, the web platform offering cycling enthusiasts travel inspiration and practical advice.
Story published on Komoot.com and Saddlestories.at [November 2023].
